The aim of today's tour is Cu Chi, a network of underground tunnels used by Viet-Cong (Communist army) to fight Americans.
Tan knows something about this subject. His father joined the army at the age of 16 and spent 10 years in the tunnels. Tan declared himself as a communist so I tried to verify my knowledge about functioning of Communist Party in Vietnam.- On 18th birthday everyone receives a Communist Party membership declaration, but very few fill it. This a guarantee of a career in the army or public administration. I did not join, I preferred a job of my choice - says Tan.
This is quite different from what Hoc told us, but the essence is the same. There is some ruling Party elite, which has 2 armies - the real, military one and the army of obedient bureaucrats.
- I avoided the army service as well - continues Tan - we have mandatory conscription, but I got a medical certificate. In Vietnam there is no age pension, so I have to work to support my parents.
Hoc told us identical story.
Our first stop is in the village. Idyllic, rural atmosphere. Female host is occupied with production of rice paper. Thick rice pulp boils in a cauldron. A woman pours a bowl of thick liquid on frying pan and after few seconds lifts with a stick a thin sheet of rice paper,
She lays it on a wicker stand. In a day she will produce a thousand of such sheets, which she will sell for US$40. At the same time she looks after other farm activities. Most obvious are very friendly pigs.
Tan watches us with a slightly ironic smile.
- Beautiful, isn't it?
We wholeheartedly agree.
- So why Americans came here, over 12,000 km away from their country, to destroy it all with bombs and napalm?
In silence we board the bus and depart towards Ben Duoc, a location of Cu Chi tunnels.
- Do you know, that initially, at the end of II World War, CIA supported Ho Chi Minh? - asks Tan.
We did not know. Back at home I checked. Apparently he meant support given to Ho Chi Minh in 1945 by the Office of Strategic Services, predecessor of CIA. Probably they did not mean to support communists, rather to keep French in check. Just another strategic game.
Cu Chi, a network of some 120 km of tunnels used by Communist army and sometimes sheltering the local population. Most of tunnels were dug 3 m under the ground. When Americans started regular bombing some extra tunnels were dug 6 m underground.When they introduced B52 bombers, tunnels were dug 9 m underground.
Tunnels were 1.3 m high and 40 cm wide. It practically eliminated American soldiers from penetrating the tunnels. Bombs and gases were the usual weapon.
People living in the tunnels could leave them only at night. Hot meals could be prepared only at early morning when earth was covered by thick fog. The most common food were tapioca and green tea. Tunnels inhabitants were plagued by malaria and parasites. Very often they were attacked by poisonous snakes as their nests reached the tunnels.
Serious issue was ventilation. Outlets of ventilating channels had to be well hidden. Pepper was sprinkled around to confuse American dogs.
We were listening to this story standing next to the tree. The ground covered by a thick layer of leaves.
Suddenly the leaves move and a Viet-Cong soldier appears.
Shouts of surprise, photos.
- Anybody wants to try?
Of course.
- Straighten up your arms or you will get stuck - shouts the guide.
I straighten them and cannot make a step. Too low, too narrow, too tight.
I crawled somehow underground, placed the lid over the hole and even did not think how I will get out. Hard not to think as after few seconds I choke with the lack of fresh air.
Fact that I write this story means that I got out somehow, but honestly, I do not know how.
So what, the guide tempts: you can walk along these tunnels, it is only 40 m distance, and for tourists the tunnels were widened to 70 cm.
Well, if they are widened I will try.
After 4 metres I regret my decision. The back aches from the deeply bent position, but the worst is a terrible lack of fresh air.
The silhouette on the photo is someone ahead of me.
- And now you can visit a birthing room, it is 6 m underground.
No, no, no!
Close to tunnels is a shooting range. Tourists can try various types of guns. Most popular is AK47, still in use. There are many people willing. Not me, I tried it in Polish (communist) army, 57 years ago.
I agree, an excellent gun.
At the end of the tour a typical tunnel meal: tapioca and green tea.
To survive on such a diet - a day, a week, months?
Apparently quite a number of people, who spent years in the tunnels, after the war could not accommodate to normal life. Too much fresh air and clean water. Their ruined organisms could not cope with it.
Detailed information about Cu Chi tunnels HERE.
Our group returns to Ho Chi Minh City, but for me it is the end of the tour. I leave the bus when it is not too far from the airport.
My farewell lunch is a wonton soup.
Last steps in the airport and, similarly as at the beginning,,,
At the end was a book.
I noticed a small book stand. Graham Green - The Quiet American - of course. But also...
A Prison Diary - a collection of poems written by Ho Chi Minh (in Chinese).
Ho Chi Minh was arrested in China in 1942 by nationalist (Kuomintang) government and spent over a year in various prisons. One of results were poems. Here are two of them.
Scabies
Covered in red and blue as though dressed in brocate
Scratching all day long, we seem to be playing the guitar.
Honoured guests, of our rich garbs we make a parade.
Strange virtuosos, sharing an itch for music we surely are!
Evening scenery
A rose blossoms, and then fades.
It blooms and withers-listless.
But its scent the cell invades.
And arouses the prisoners' bitterness.
***
English translation by Dang The Binh.
That means I am in Melbourne.
Vietnam links to all parts - Part1, Part2, Part3, Part4, Part5, Part6.
No comments:
Post a Comment